Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! It's late July, or maybe early August by the time you're reading this, and we’re already preparing for winter by installing a freeze-proof hydrant. If you've ever seen these in stores and wondered how they work, I’m going to walk you through the process. I’ll show you why it’s freeze-proof, how I like to install it, and some extra steps I take to make it even more effective. We’re working on the homestead, running this hydrant out of the well house and into the water system.

The key to a freeze-proof hydrant is its installation, which involves burying the bottom part of the hydrant deep enough to avoid freezing temperatures. I like to use four or six-inch corrugated pipe for extra protection, and here we’re using four-inch pipe. Over the top of the hydrant, I place a flower pot filled with gravel for proper drainage at the weep hole—don’t worry, I’ll explain what that means and how it works.

To build the stone trap, I’ve taken a four-inch corrugated pipe (though PVC works too) and placed it in the hole. To prevent dirt and water from getting in, we’ll cap it with a simple one-gallon nursery pot. By cutting a hole in the pot and sliding it over the hydrant pipe, we ensure everything stays in place while allowing for easy drainage. It may sound complicated, but once you see it, it’ll all make sense.

Now for the setup: I’ve got the hydrant in place, and as I work in the shade (because it's hot out here!), I’ll show you the slit we cut into the pipe. Instead of threading the pipe through, we can now easily slide it down into the hole. Once we position everything, the hydrant will sit right over the pipe and allow for easy winter use.

Here’s how it works: the water valve is buried two feet underground, and when you turn on the hydrant, it takes a second for the water to come up. When you shut it off, the water drains out of the pipe, preventing any freezing. That’s why we use gravel around the pipe—it allows the water to drain properly and keeps the hydrant functional all winter.

With everything in place, the hydrant works like a charm. It’ll save us from hauling buckets of water or milk jugs during the freezing months. My chickens have been keeping me company while I work, and they’ve enjoyed every worm I’ve dug up!

As always, if you need advice or help with your homestead projects or homestead consulting services, feel free to reach out. My email is listed below. Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe, and I’ll see you next time!

Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, we're on my property to work on a hidden spring system that hasn’t been cleaned in over five years. The spring is housed in a concrete block structure with a cement floor, walls, and roof, making it nearly invisible unless you get right up to it. There’s a metal door covering the entrance, and today’s project involves cleaning it out and setting up a small display to show how it was originally built around 1964.

Currently, the structure is partially concealed by a tree that fell over it. To give a better idea, the building has a concrete floor, block walls, and a poured cement roof, so it blends seamlessly into the environment. I’m about to remove the door and take you through this adventure as we clean out the accumulated sediment.

After taking off the door, it’s a bit difficult to see the back wall clearly, but I’ll describe it as best I can. The inside is about four feet by four feet with cement blocks arranged to allow spring water to flow in. I’ve already shoveled out a good amount of sediment, and now I need to dig out the remaining buildup with a trowel. Time to get wet and dirty—let’s dive in!

I have removed most of the dirt inside, and I want to show you the structure in more detail. It has a poured concrete floor, blocks laid horizontally on three sides to support the walls, and a poured concrete ceiling. The water flows through a one-and-a-quarter-inch pipe, which exits the structure through an outflow system I set up. I plan to build a more effective sediment trap for better filtration.

The water is currently flowing at about six gallons per minute, which is impressive considering it’s the dry season. In wetter months, the flow can reach up to 14 gallons per minute, making it difficult for standard filters to handle. That’s why I’m constructing a larger sediment trap—a five-gallon bucket modified to manage the flow better. I’ll show you how I put it together and test it for effectiveness.

The setup involves a one-inch hose barb, PVC pipe, and a fabric cover acting as a primary filter. It’s not pretty, but this is just the first version. If it works, I’ll refine it into something more permanent. I’ve been down in this small space for a couple of hours now, clearing the sediment, installing the new filtration, and making sure the system runs smoothly. Let’s see if it holds up!

I know it’s a lot of work, but maintaining this spring system is worth it. The structure has been here since 1964, originally designed to feed a small cabin nearby. Now, the system connects to two separate storage tanks, each holding 275 gallons. The overflow runs into a double pump house, providing water storage of 550 gallons for use at the main house. This ensures we have plenty of water, even during the driest months.

This is all part of ensuring that our water, power, and sewer systems remain reliable year-round. If you found this video helpful or interesting, please give it a thumbs-up, share it, and subscribe to the channel. We’re reaching more people every day and building a community focused on self-reliance and practical projects like this one. Thanks for joining me, and I’ll see you in the next episode!

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Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, I'll walk you through the process of installing a UV light in an existing water filtration system. I’ll share some tips and tricks I’ve learned, including how to prevent breaking the glass tube, the proper way to install the light, and how to connect everything. Let’s get started!

Understanding the Assembly of the UV Light
Before we begin the installation, let’s take a closer look at the assembly process for the UV light. These UV light kits are widely available on platforms like Amazon or from specialized suppliers. The model we’re using today is a 55-watt, 110-volt unit, suitable for use in the United States. It features two openings at each end along with a set of water fittings, and it can be mounted in various orientations—horizontal, vertical, or at any angle.

The light comes with a long glass tube that resembles a test tube. Begin by sliding a ring over the glass tube, ensuring everything is properly aligned. Gently slide the tube down until it protrudes from the opposite end. This is where issues commonly arise, as the glass tube has a flange that needs to securely seal in place. Allow the tube to stick out slightly, hold it in position at the opposite end to prevent slipping, and then hand-tighten the assembly. Repeat the same process for the other end.

How the UV Light Purifies Water
Water enters one side of the unit, flows between the glass tube and the metal housing, gets purified by the UV light, and exits through the other end. This specific model comes with one glass tube and three light bulbs. It’s important to note that UV light bulbs are only effective for about one year, even if they are still producing light and heat. Annual replacement is recommended to ensure proper water purification.

Proper Installation of the Light Bulb
When inserting the UV light bulb, avoid direct contact with the bulb using your bare hands, as oils from your skin can damage it. Carefully slide the bulb into the glass tube and secure it using the four-prong plug provided. Hand-tighten the end caps, making sure the seals are correctly in place. The system also includes plastic mounting clips, which I’ll demonstrate later.

Connecting the UV Light to Your System
For my setup, I needed a 90-degree fitting to connect the unit to PEX pipe. However, since a 3/4" female pipe to 3/4" PEX fitting in a 90-degree angle wasn’t readily available, I used a shower fitting instead. I wrapped the threads with Teflon tape, applied pipe sealer, and tightened it securely.

Now, we’re at the pump house. There’s a spring below, and a pump sends water up to a holding tank. Because of the distance, the pressure is low, so we installed a booster pump from Harbor Freight. We’ll cut the line at this point to connect the UV light system. I mounted a board to the wall to serve as a solid base for securing the light unit.

Final Assembly and Mounting
I cut the old PVC pipe and installed a 90-degree threaded fitting using wet and dry PVC cement. There are no leaks, thanks to the Teflon tape and pipe dope used on the connections. The PEX pipe is fastened securely with stainless steel clamps, and the UV light is mounted on the board with the provided plastic clips, which allow for easy removal during future bulb replacements.

Cost and Installation
TimeThis setup typically costs between $180 and $200, depending on the number of light bulbs and glass tubes required. Installation usually takes around 15-20 minutes, though it may take longer if you’re new to this type of project.

Final Tips
As always, if you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment on YouTube or send me an email. I’m happy to offer free advice, and I also provide installation or consultation services for a fee. Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you in the next video!

Contact us if we can help you in your preparedness or homesteading projects.  We provide homestead consulting and homestead planning services and are happy to help.  Just reach out!