Discover the Steps to Constructing a Safe and Efficient Deep Well Pump Box

Welcome back to Base Camp WNC!  In an earlier video, I showed you the spring that's producing around 30 gallons per minute. Now, let me show you the box we've built to house our deep well pump and pressure tank.

To begin, we had a man with an excavator dig a hole. To keep the dirt out, we placed a perforated drain tile with a fabric sock over it. Once we're finished, we'll cover it with clean gravel so you won't have to stand in mud when replacing filters.

Now let's take a closer look at the box we've constructed. It's designed to protect the system from freezing and other environmental elements. Inside, you can see the pressure tank in the corner. The tank is equipped with a deep well pump and a float valve to keep it full with well water if the spring runs dry.

We've connected the water line that goes out to the tiny home site to the electrical conduit that supplies the wire. Another water line comes from down the hill to supply other areas, and we will cut into that line as well.

Now, it's time to move on to the next step. We need to cut the pipe down to a certain level without cutting the wires. To protect the wires, we'll slide them through a piece of one-inch pipe before making the cut. This ensures the wires won't be damaged.

With the wires protected, we can proceed with cutting the pipe without any issues. Additionally, we've installed a one-inch pull-through which will be used for a UV light if necessary. The other receptacle will provide 110 volts, as all the pipes in the box will have heat tape wrapped around them to prevent freezing during winter.

Next, we will wire the pump switch and clean the tank. Once the pump is up and running, we'll finish wiring up the box and have everything ready to go.

Now, let me show you how we set the deep well pump in the tank. It needs to be either completely horizontal or completely vertical to avoid damage to the bearings. We'll place the pump inside a four-inch plastic pipe, allowing water to flow across the motor and keep it cool. We've also taken precautions to ensure the wire won't rub against the stainless steel strap.

To keep the pump off the tank's bottom, we'll use zip ties to attach it to an eight-inch cement block. This prevents sediment from accumulating and affecting the pump's performance.

Once everything is set up, we can lower the pump into the tank and begin working on connecting the pipes. In addition to that, we've installed a filter bag over the inlet to catch sediment and keep the water clean.

Lastly, we've constructed a lid for the other end of the tank, completing the system. We'll await the results of the health department water test before making any further adjustments.

If you ever need assistance with a similar system, feel free to reach out to me. I'm available for phone consultations or I can even come out to provide help. And don't forget to like, share, and subscribe to our channel! Thank you, and see you in the next video.