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Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! About two years ago, I began a water project for a client—today, that same client is completing his dream cabin. Now nearly finished, this charming retreat will soon be available as an Airbnb, offering the perfect mountain getaway whenever the owner isn’t using it. If you’re searching for peace, comfort, and beauty near Mountain City, Tennessee, this might be your ideal destination. The cabin is almost move-in ready, with just a few final touches left. Let’s take a look inside and around the property. Outside, you’ll find a spacious deck perfect for taking in the views, a convenient parking area, and a cozy fire pit ready for cool mountain evenings. Down below, there’s a 1,500-gallon water tank, and plans are in motion for an additional deck featuring a spring-fed cold plunge pool and a sauna. For those who love breathtaking scenery, this spot is truly special. Inside, the cabin is fully equipped with modern amenities. The kitchen includes a sleek stainless steel stove, a convection oven, and a deep sink—everything you need for home-cooked meals. The living area features a pull-out queen-size sofa bed, a large flat-screen TV, and an electric fireplace that adds a warm, inviting touch. The staircase slides to the side to maximize space. Upstairs in the loft is a comfortable queen-size bed, and the kitchen also includes a stainless steel refrigerator and a stackable washer and dryer for added convenience. The bathroom offers rustic charm with a custom-made vanity and copper sink. Because of the remote location, the cabin uses a propane incinerator toilet. There’s also a spacious walk-in shower that offers a view—though you may need to look past the window glare to fully enjoy it. Step outside onto the deck, where a hot tub is soon to be installed. Even with the snow and ice from the night before, the mountain views remain absolutely stunning. The sound of the nearby river and creek adds a peaceful backdrop, and the fire pit area is perfect for unwinding with a warm drink or your favorite craft beer. Interested in renting this serene escape? Stay tuned for a link to the listing. The owner plans to open bookings this spring, and you could be the very first guest to experience this hidden gem. A mini-split system provides both heating and air conditioning, ensuring comfort no matter the season. The views are truly awe-inspiring in every direction. The cabin is affectionately named the “Bigfoot Lair,” and the owner’s property stretches to the ridge above, down to the creek, and into the surrounding mountains. If you love hiking, there are trails nearby, and the owner may even mark them out for guests to explore. This isn’t just a place to stay—it’s a chance to reconnect with nature, unwind, and experience the tranquility of mountain living. Be sure to like, share, and subscribe to support the channel. Leave your comments for Robert and let him know what you think of this beautiful project—he’s poured his heart into every detail. Thanks for watching, and don’t forget to hit that thumbs-up button. We appreciate your continued support! For more information on Homestead Planning, visit us at: carolinahomesteadplanner.com
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 Welcome to Base Camp WNC, where today we embark on an exciting restoration adventure! We're tackling a spring house that dates back over half a century, and as it stands now, it's seen better days. The structure suffers from a collapsed roof, missing screens, and weather-damaged cement blocks.
Our restoration journey begins with dismantling the deteriorated parts. Interestingly, the original iron piping was replaced by PVC, which now serves as the primary water outlet. Our first goal is to clear away the surrounding rocks to uncover the true water source. We’ll construct a dam wall to regulate the flow of the spring. As we cleared the site, we unearthed multiple spring heads. To combat potential contamination from surface runoff and insects, we layered bentonite clay and soil to fortify the base. We’ve also introduced a protective layer of fabric for durability and a plastic cover for additional safeguarding against the elements. Depending on stability, we may add more gravel, while the existing blocks could remain to aid in water diversion. With the debris cleared, our focus shifted to enhancing the spring's infrastructure. We installed a new conduit to guarantee uninterrupted water flow to the storage tank. The spring now operates efficiently, with recently cleaned, pressure-washed, and sanitized components ensuring pristine condition. Inside the nearby utility shed, we've fitted an expansion tank and a Rusco spin-down filter to preserve water quality and manage pressure. The new setup includes a one-inch poly line connecting the spring to the tank, with an overflow arrangement to handle excess water. The restoration continued even through six days of rain, which led us to regrade the site and add a 30-mil vinyl roofing liner atop the plastic layer for extra protection from natural debris. The repurposed old cement blocks from the original pump house now serve a new purpose—anchoring the liner. This project not only revitalizes the spring house but also enhances the water pressure and flow, ensuring a reliable water supply. We've also considered the potential need for additional filtration to maintain water purity. For those considering similar restoration projects, I offer personalized consulting services. Whether you need advice based on photos or an on-site evaluation, feel free to contact me. Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe for more updates on our restoration adventures. Hit that thumbs-up button if you enjoyed the video, and join us next time at Base Camp WNC! Visit us for more project help for your homesteading Lifestyle. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC!
In today’s episode, we’re diving deep into common well water system issues, spotlighting how a seemingly minor oversight can disrupt your entire water supply. We’re on-site at a client’s property, where a recently installed well and brand-new bladder tank should have solved their water woes. Instead, we’ve uncovered that a critical, yet inexpensive component—the pressure switch—was overlooked. The backstory is crucial here: the property’s old well pump had been running faithfully for two decades. When it finally required replacement, the homeowners didn’t hesitate to invest a hefty sum—close to $5,000—into a new pump and tank. Yet, a simple $40 pressure switch, which had succumbed to wear and tear, was missed, leading to the current predicament. Today’s guide is not just about troubleshooting but also ensuring you have water during power outages. We’re setting up a generator-powered system, crucial for sustaining water supply for livestock and essential needs when the grid fails. Step-by-Step Setup for Generator Power
Professional Installation Tips For those unsure about the electrical setup, hiring a seasoned electrician is recommended. They can handle the wiring, plug installation, and ensure everything is up to code. Opting for an electrician with experience in generator setups can be particularly beneficial. Wiring Specifics Ensure the connection is secure:
This DIY guide ensures your well continues to pump water reliably, even during a power outage. For further guidance or troubleshooting, feel free to reach out for an online consultation. Remember to like, share, and subscribe for more practical tips. Hit the thumbs-up, and stay tuned for more from Base Camp WNC! This refreshed content not only provides detailed guidance but incorporates highly searchable keywords like "well water system issues," "generator-powered water supply," and "DIY guide for well maintenance," ensuring better visibility and engagement. For more resources, visit my site at: Carolina Homestead Planner. We offer Homestead Consultations for those looking to create a homesteading Lifestyle.  Welcome back to Base Camp WNC!
Join me on an unexpected adventure as we breathe new life into an old Woods three-point hitch backhoe. This piece of machinery, bought by a friend’s uncle, had been forgotten in a field for two decades. Initially, I hadn't planned on documenting this rebuild, but as the project unfolded, I captured the transformation mainly through photographs, with a few videos to share later. The Restoration Begins Here’s what we started with: a backhoe that clearly showed signs of neglect, sitting idle with all its hoses missing. In total, we replaced about 22 hoses, each meticulously chosen to fit and function better than before. The initial clean-up involved wire-brushing to remove years of grime, preparing it for the heavy lifting—literally and figuratively—involved in its rebuild. Detailed Breakdown: Disassembly and Diagnosis Our project required us to strip down the backhoe to its core components: the boom, the stick, and the outriggers were all removed, exposing the bones of this robust machine. The hydraulic hoses were all gone, leaving just the stark frames and splintered metal. Luckily, the Woods official site provided a complete model diagram and measurements for each hose, guiding our replacements and ensuring each new piece was a perfect match for the intended design. From Grinding to Welding: Addressing Wear and Tear One of the biggest challenges was addressing the significant wear on parts that had been poorly maintained. Using only basic tools like a cut-off wheel and a grinder, I smoothed out rough edges and prepared surfaces for new bushings. We fabricated a new, larger bushing for the overly worn bucket hole, transforming it from an oblong gap into a snug, secure fit. This precise adjustment was crucial, ensuring the bucket would no longer wobble during operation. Reassembling with Precision Reassembling the backhoe was a puzzle of precision. We reattached the outriggers, strung all new hoses, and began the careful process of connecting hydraulic lines to their respective cylinders. By numbering each hose, we avoided confusion and ensured each was correctly placed, simplifying what could have been a complex guessing game. Final Adjustments and Future Projects The final steps involved some detailed welding, ensuring every new component was securely in place. We also had to address a misaligned grease fitting and replace some worn-out sockets that kept popping off. Even though some parts required unconventional solutions—like using vice grips temporarily—each fix brought this backhoe closer to its full potential. Despite its age and the previous owners' makeshift repairs, this backhoe is ready to tackle new tasks. From digging out stumps to clearing rocks, it's set to outperform any manual shovel work—and at a fraction of the cost quoted for professional digging services. Wrapping Up This project was more than just a mechanical rebuild; it was a journey back in time, reviving a piece of equipment many would have written off. I hope this blog inspires you to take on your restoration projects, no matter the scale. Stay tuned for more updates, and as always, feel free to reach out with questions or for advice. Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe for more from Base Camp WNC! If you need more help with your homesteading lifestyle, please let us know. Visit our site and get more information on our homestead consulting services. Welcome to Base Camp WNC, where DIY projects come to life with a sprinkle of history and heaps of practicality. In today’s tutorial, we'll walk you through creating a charming vintage wash stand, complete with wash tubs and a hand wringer—an essential for any home seeking that rustic touch or practical off-grid functionality. If you are building a homesteading lifestyle, we offer some great tips and resources.
Getting Started: The Materials Our project began with the purchase of wash tubs from Home Depot, easily found online for convenience. As for the hand wringer, it was sourced from Amazon. You’ll also need a set of tools, including a saw, drill, and a planer, and some hardware like screws and C clamps. The highlight of our materials list is the repurposed Redwood, salvaged from a deck built in the '60s, giving this project not only a sturdy base but also a story to tell. Step 1: Design and Prep Work Before cutting any wood, decide on the dimensions. Our stand measures about 45 inches in length. The initial task was to strip the old paint off the Redwood, restoring its vibrant color and smooth texture. This involved some heavy-duty planing, as we wanted to remove just enough surface to clean the boards without losing their character. Step 2: Assembling the Frame Constructing the frame to support the wash tubs and the wringer requires precision. We opted not to cut drains into the tubs, thinking it easier to lift and empty them manually. The frame was designed to accommodate the tubs snugly, with the wringer mounted on a raised wall for easy operation. Each piece of wood was measured, cut, and attached with care, ensuring the structure’s stability and the wood’s historical integrity. Step 3: Determining the Height The height of the table is crucial for comfort and functionality. We positioned a bucket to gauge the ideal height for the wringer, settling on 20 inches for the table surface. This height allows easy operation of the wringer without bending over too much, preserving your back during those laundry days. Step 4: Reinforcing the Structure Given the mechanical action of the wringer, we reinforced the frame with 45-degree braces on the legs to prevent any wobbling. Additional cross-bracing was also installed to ensure the table would stand firm under the torque produced by the wringer. Step 5: Finishing Touches After assembling the frame and securing all components, it was time to focus on the details. We adjusted the clamps that hold the wringer in place, replacing the inadequate original with a more robust bolt-through solution, ensuring everything was tightly secured and squared. The Final Product The finished wash stand is not only functional but also visually appealing, echoing stories of the past with its vintage charm. It’s a perfect addition to any home looking to add a functional piece with a nostalgic touch. DIY Tips and Tweaks Remember, when tackling a project like this, always measure twice and cut once. Customizing the height based on your needs can make all the difference in usability. And while the clamps might need some tweaking, it’s these small adjustments that perfect the stand. We'd love to see how your DIY projects turn out! Share your thoughts, photos, and tips with us. Hit the subscribe button for more DIY adventures, and let us know what you think in the comments below. Here's to many more successful projects at Base Camp WNC! If we can help you with your homesteading projects, visit our site for more information. We offer Homestead Consulting and Preparedness. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC!
It’s been a bit since our last update, as life’s responsibilities often grow with age. Today, we're revisiting a project from last summer when I tackled building a deck on this cabin. Despite the current chilly 19° weather, memories of that sweltering build still linger. It’s been a few months—two or three since my last post—but let’s dive back into the details of that project. For this build, we opted for hog panel railings to ensure an unobstructed view while seated. We're even considering adding Mountain Laurel accents to the steps for a natural touch. Today’s focus, however, is on replacing the homemade double barn doors with a standard 36-inch house entrance door to expand the kitchen area slightly and improve insulation against pests. I’ve already removed the barn doors and started framing the opening for the new door, which will feature glass panels and better align with the existing siding for a seamless appearance. Installation of the new door required precise cutting and fitting, especially to accommodate the siding and trim. Though I didn’t film every step of the process, I managed to secure the header and set the foundation for the door installation. The construction started with a header mounted on the wall, secured with lag bolts, providing a stable base to support the structure. We ensured everything was perfectly square using the 3-4-5 triangle method, essential for the layout of the deck. Next, we installed the floor joists, maintaining a straight alignment without the need to measure each one individually. I used pre-cut space blocks to ensure consistent spacing of 16 inches on center, simplifying the process. The joists were attached using ceramic-coated screws suitable for treated lumber, guaranteeing durability and ease of installation. If you are looking for homesteading consulting services, visit our site at: carolinahomesteadplanner.com Join us as we continue this detailed guide to building a deck with practical and stylish hog panel railings. Remember to like, share, and subscribe for more updates from Base Camp WNC. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you in the next one! Welcome back to Base Camp WNC!
Today, we're diving into the essentials of irrigation for properties designed for rotational grazing. We'll explore the specifics of using irrigation connections and demonstrate their operation. Situated at the pit's base, our setup includes a pivotal connection point for instant water access, allowing flexible movement of your water trough as needed. Join us as we walk you through the construction process and provide a detailed look at how compression fittings clamp onto a 1-inch heavy-duty water pipe. You’ll also get a tour of the pasture layout and learn why we prefer sturdy wire fencing over net fencing, despite its popularity and sponsorship endorsements. The property’s owner uses four-strand wire fencing, with plans to upgrade to five, reinforcing the principle that "Good fences make good neighbors." As we proceed with the build, I'll show you the workings of a gravity flow system fueled by a water tank positioned to create about a 100-foot elevation drop, generating 45 pounds of pressure in the pipes. Discover how the irrigation line strategically runs up the center of the pasture, effectively dividing the land into multiple grazing sections to enhance land utilization. Watch as we assemble the irrigation pipeline, showcasing each component—from the robust 1-inch schedule 80 polyline to the external compression fittings and the valve mechanisms that ensure a continuous water supply. Learn the simple steps to engage the water flow and the precautions for disconnecting and maintaining the system dirt-free. I'm also excited to share some personal gear favorites and on-site enhancements like the gasoline-powered post driver, a game-changer for fence installations. Plus, witness how strategic planning with water lines along the fence lines and roads optimizes accessibility and functionality across the grazing land. This short tutorial covers everything from setup to execution, ensuring you have all the knowledge at your fingertips. Visit us at: Carolina Homestead Planner for more Homesteading Guides and to contact us for homesteading consulting and homesteading services. Stay tuned for more practical tips and remember to like, share, and subscribe for more from Base Camp WNC. Thanks for watching, and see you in the next video! Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, we’ll show you how to enclose a deep well pump within a sturdy tube housing. This setup ensures your pump stays off the tank’s bottom, prevents sediment from entering, and extends the motor's life by keeping it horizontal. Maintaining the motor’s warranty and reducing bearing wear are key advantages of this design. We’ll also walk you through how to protect the wiring where it exits and properly attach a pull cord for ease of use. Let’s dive into the process!
Why Build a Deep Well Pump Housing? Deep well pumps are designed to function vertically or horizontally, depending on the manufacturer’s specifications. When used in smaller tanks, such as a 300-gallon cistern, a vertical pump might not fully access the available water. Laying the pump horizontally allows for optimal water flow, keeps the motor cool, and prevents unnecessary sediment from being drawn in. Building a PVC housing for the pump ensures durability, proper alignment, and easy maintenance. Step 1: Understanding the Pump Assembly Let’s start with the components of the deep well pump assembly:
Step 2: Building the Tube Housing The pump housing is constructed from PVC, slightly longer than the pump itself. The steps include:
Step 3: Securing the Pump With the casing ready, the pump is secured as follows:
Step 4: Installation and Benefits This fully enclosed deep well pump setup is now ready for installation in the cistern. The benefits of this design include:
Final Thoughts This deep well pump housing is a reliable and cost-effective solution for small cistern setups. While I don’t have a downloadable set of plans for this project, you can watch the accompanying video for step-by-step guidance. If you found this tutorial helpful, don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe to Base Camp WNC. Share this video with your friends, and stay tuned for the next part, where we’ll install the pump and show you how it performs. Thanks for watching, and see you soon! If we can help with any questions, kindly reach-out to us at our website at: CarolinaHomesteadPlanner.com. We offer homesteading consulting and Preparedness support. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! If you’re looking for a practical way to keep your PTO generator dry, this guide is for you. Today, I’ll walk you through the process of building a durable, weatherproof cover for your generator using an IBC tote. Keeping your generator dry is crucial, and this DIY project is a cost-effective solution. Let’s get started! Why Build a Cover for Your PTO Generator? Generators must be protected from moisture to operate reliably. In this setup, the generator sits beneath the drip line of a roofed shed. Using an IBC tote, we crafted a custom cover that fits perfectly over the generator. The tote is cut and modified to create a sturdy, protective enclosure. Step 1: Preparing the IBC Tote We started with a standard IBC tote and cut it down to size. Here’s how we measured and modified it:
Step 2: Assembling the Frame Once the pieces were cut:
Step 3: Cutting and Modifying the Cover The top section of the IBC tote was split to create a cover. Key modifications included:
Step 4: Painting and Final Adjustments To prevent scratches and condensation, the inside of the cover was painted black. Additional steps included:
Step 5: Installing the CoverWith the cover built and painted:
Final Setup and Testing The generator was hooked up to the tractor and wired for use. To prevent water pooling, we dug out the area beneath the roof and added gravel for proper drainage. The cover is now fully waterproof and user-friendly:
Key Takeaways This IBC tote cover is a cost-effective and durable solution to keep your PTO generator dry and functional. These totes are widely available and affordable, especially if they previously held non-drinking water. Ready to Build Your Own Generator Cover? If you’re inspired by this project and have any questions, feel free to reach out! Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe to Base Camp WNC for more DIY tips and tricks. Thanks for watching, and we’ll see you in the next video! If you have questions or are looking for homestead consulting services, please visit our site at: CarolinaHomesteadPlanner.com. We are happy to help Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, we’ll walk you through the setup of a PTO-driven generator. This particular unit is a 24,000-watt (12kW) generator with a surge capacity of 27,500 watts, purchased from Northern Tool and Hydraulics. Let’s dive into the details and specifications.
Generator Overview The generator includes the transmission and PTO shaft. Similar models from Agri Supply come pre-mounted on stands and also include the PTO shaft. For this setup, we’ve repurposed an old carry-off for the back of a tractor, modified with frames from a mobile home. When connected to the tractor, the PTO shaft runs straight, and the generator rests securely on the ground. Why Choose a PTO-Driven Generator? PTO-driven generators are ideal for locations with multiple tractors. For example, this property has two tractors—one dedicated to the generator and another for cleanup tasks. Following Hurricane Helene, such a setup has proven invaluable. To operate this generator, the tractor should have a minimum of 45 horsepower. In this case, we’re using a 63-horsepower tractor, providing more than enough power. One key benefit of this generator is its simplicity. There’s no need to maintain an additional motor or battery; you can allocate a tractor to it whenever required. Generator Specifications and Features The generator control panel includes:
The system is managed by 60-amp and 100-amp breakers. This particular model is a North Star generator, which must remain dry during operation. To address this, we’ve built a protective cover, as shown in one of our previous videos, ensuring the generator is safe from rain or snow. The setup includes:
This 24,000-watt single-phase generator is one of the larger models, but there are smaller options available, such as 16,000-18,000 watts or even 12,000 watts. Initially housed on a pad designed for a diesel engine, this generator features a 100-amp plug feeding into a breaker box with a disconnect switch. Future enhancements will include lithium batteries and an inverter to provide seamless power transitions, especially for a house with a wood-fired furnace requiring overnight electricity. With this setup, the generator will be ready to handle the next storm and provide reliable whole-house power. Final Thoughts If you’re considering a similar setup, the simplicity and reliability of a PTO-driven generator make it a worthwhile investment. If you have questions or need help, feel free to reach out—we’re here to help. Thanks for watching! Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe to Base Camp WNC, and let your friends know about us. See you in the next video! If you have additional questions or have a need for a homestead consultation, please visit our site and reach out to us. We are happy to provide help. How to Build a Massive Firewood Storage Facility: Step-by-Step Guide for Long-Term Wood Storage11/16/2024 Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, I’m thrilled to take you through a major winter project that’s been in the works for quite a while—a massive firewood storage facility. This setup is specifically designed to support an outdoor wood boiler and provide a long-term solution for storing firewood. You never know when you will need the extra firewood, so it's important that we are prepared. Let’s dive into the process and take a look at how this impressive facility came together. Laying the Foundation: Getting Started Right The project began with a solid concrete foundation. When the outdoor furnace was first installed, a concrete slab was poured for the boiler. Additionally, a 16 by 20-foot slab was prepared, but the construction of the firewood building itself had been put off—until now. This storage facility will hold up to 17 cords of wood, enough to keep the boiler running for up to three years. We’ve already started cutting and stacking wood on one side, with more firewood on the way. Adding Convenience with Lighting and Organization To make accessing the firewood at night easier, we installed three bright LED lights controlled by a switch. Now, there’s no need for flashlights! We also added a handy mailbox that stores a torch and matches, making it quick and easy to light a fire. Plus, a kindling box is being built in a dedicated spot, helping to keep everything neat and organized. Expanding for Extra Storage and Equipment Protection We extended the structure by six feet to add even more storage space. This additional area will hold extra firewood and equipment. One bay is specifically designed to store the log splitter during the off-season, protecting it from the elements. We also included a sturdy shelf to store gas cans, oil, and essential maintenance tools like a grease gun and paintbrush. Detailed Construction: Strong and Durable Build The core of the project involves installing four main beams, carefully positioned while the ground is frozen for easier handling. We used post holders drilled and bolted securely into the concrete floor for maximum stability. The building measures 20 feet wide and 16 feet deep. To create longer beams, we connected two nine-foot beams using pre-drilled holes from a previous metal building project. Smart Wood Storage Design for Long-Term Durability To keep the firewood dry and ready to burn, we designed the storage area using treated lumber pallets. These heavy-duty pallets ensure long-lasting support. The facility can hold about two and a half years’ worth of firewood, keeping it off the ground and well-ventilated. We also used cattle panels for the walls, secured with staples. The edges were bent inward to prevent injuries, creating a safe and efficient storage space. Roofing: Built to Last The roof is made from repurposed metal sheets of different lengths, helping us reduce costs and make use of available materials. We used rough-cut one-by-four boards across the beams and added a right-angle support piece for extra strength. The roof design can handle heavy snow loads, with supports spaced six feet apart to provide a solid, weather-resistant cover. Final Details and Tips for Your Own Firewood Storage With the structure complete, this facility is now capable of storing up to three years’ worth of firewood, ensuring you’ll always have dry, seasoned wood ready to burn. The use of cattle panels allows for excellent airflow, preventing moisture buildup and helping the wood dry faster. This open design is more efficient than a fully enclosed building, saving time and reducing the risk of mold or rot. I hope this guide inspires you to tackle your own firewood storage project or helps you learn more about efficient wood storage techniques. If you found this walkthrough helpful, please like, share, and subscribe to stay updated on our latest projects. Hit that thumbs-up button, and I’ll catch you in the next one! Remember, if you need any homesteading or self-reliant planning, be sure to contact us. We are here to help with homestead consulting and planning. Visit us at: CarolinaHomesteadPlanner.com Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, we're tackling an exciting off-grid project: installing an RPS solar well pump system designed to provide reliable water access for livestock and potential household use. Overview of the Project The landowner has chosen an RPS solar pump to draw water from a deep well, filling a 2,500 or 3,000-gallon storage tank. This tank is strategically placed to gravity-feed water downhill to livestock pastures and possibly supply future household needs. Solar Power Setup The system is driven by 1,200 watts of solar energy using RPS solar panels, complete with racking and adjustable angle brackets for optimal seasonal performance. However, additional components like piping and well wiring were sourced separately. The solar panels are mounted on sturdy 4-inch galvanized pipes, buried 5 feet into the ground for stability. Electrical and Grounding System The system includes two ground rods for electrical safety. A wire from the solar panels connects to three additional ground rods, spaced 6 feet apart, ensuring compliance with local codes. The RPS Universal Pump Drive powers the pump, positioned at a depth of 300 feet in a 500-foot well. One notable feature of this setup is its ability to switch power sources, running directly off a generator if needed. Pump Capacity and Flow Control The RPS pump delivers up to 18 gallons per minute, adjustable down to 10 gallons per minute. Multiple valves control water flow: one for the well, one for the pastures, another reserved for future household use, and an overflow valve that directs excess water to a pond. The system also features an electric float switch for automatic on/off functionality. Tank and Valve Protection The water storage tank sits on a base made from rough-cut treated lumber, buried a couple of feet underground to prevent freezing. Flexible hoses connect the tank to various outlets, allowing for expansion and contraction without damaging the pipes. A modified 55-gallon drum serves as a protective cover for the valves, ensuring stability and shielding the system from potential damage. The tank area is backfilled with gravel, following recommendations from the manufacturer's representative, to accommodate any movement from tank expansion. Overflow and Expansion Features The overflow system directs excess water to a pond, providing a secondary source of water for local wildlife. The landowner has planned for future upgrades, including the addition of more solar panels or a battery backup for nighttime operation. Assembling the RPS System The landowner assembled the entire RPS variable speed pump system using detailed instructions provided by the manufacturer. Although technical support response times may vary, the project is manageable for a dedicated homeowner willing to put in the effort. Future plans include installing a deep well pump for grid power once the house is built. Need Help Designing Your Own System? If you're interested in designing a similar off-grid water system, reach out to Carolina Homestead Planner for assistance. And don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe for updates! In our next video, we’ll be setting up a gravity-fed water system to support regenerative pasture management. We value your feedback, so let us know your thoughts in the comments below. Stay tuned, and see you in the next video! Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! We’re kicking off a new homesteading series, starting with essential tips on freeze-proofing your water systems to survive the winter. This first video will cover everything you need to know to keep water flowing on your homestead, even when temperatures plummet. Over the last month, I’ve seen countless YouTube videos from other homesteaders on how to winterize water systems, but I noticed many end up with frozen pipes and hoses, leaving them unable to water their animals. We’re here at the campground with a new well system that, unfortunately, froze and broke during a recent cold snap. The plumber added insulation, but it wasn’t enough. The campground lost water, and repairs were necessary. In this video, I’ll walk you through how to prevent similar issues by using heat tape, insulation, and power backup systems to keep your water supply secure. Insulating the Well I recently received a call about a well located high up on the mountain that wasn’t properly insulated, resulting in a frozen pipe and broken tank. The tank was left with inadequate insulation, and when temperatures dropped to just a couple of degrees, everything froze solid. Our plan here is to:
Setting Up for Extreme Weather With the temperatures expected to dip into the 20s or teens again soon, we’re taking extra steps to safeguard the system:
Wrapping Up This project is a foundational part of our new homesteading series. We’re going to cover more winter-proofing tips, from water filtration to managing livestock in extreme temperatures. Our goal is to help you avoid common pitfalls, like frozen water systems that many other homesteaders encounter. From insulating well pumps to setting up backup power, we’ll provide reliable solutions that keep your homestead prepared for the cold. If you found this helpful, please like, share, and subscribe to support our Youtube channel. Feel free to contact me for more homesteading tips or if you have any specific homestead services questions. Stay tuned for our next video where we’ll dive into filtration systems for safe drinking water straight from streams! Visit us at: CarolinaHomesteadPlanner.com for more information and tips. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! It's late July, or maybe early August by the time you're reading this, and we’re already preparing for winter by installing a freeze-proof hydrant. If you've ever seen these in stores and wondered how they work, I’m going to walk you through the process. I’ll show you why it’s freeze-proof, how I like to install it, and some extra steps I take to make it even more effective. We’re working on the homestead, running this hydrant out of the well house and into the water system. The key to a freeze-proof hydrant is its installation, which involves burying the bottom part of the hydrant deep enough to avoid freezing temperatures. I like to use four or six-inch corrugated pipe for extra protection, and here we’re using four-inch pipe. Over the top of the hydrant, I place a flower pot filled with gravel for proper drainage at the weep hole—don’t worry, I’ll explain what that means and how it works. To build the stone trap, I’ve taken a four-inch corrugated pipe (though PVC works too) and placed it in the hole. To prevent dirt and water from getting in, we’ll cap it with a simple one-gallon nursery pot. By cutting a hole in the pot and sliding it over the hydrant pipe, we ensure everything stays in place while allowing for easy drainage. It may sound complicated, but once you see it, it’ll all make sense. Now for the setup: I’ve got the hydrant in place, and as I work in the shade (because it's hot out here!), I’ll show you the slit we cut into the pipe. Instead of threading the pipe through, we can now easily slide it down into the hole. Once we position everything, the hydrant will sit right over the pipe and allow for easy winter use. Here’s how it works: the water valve is buried two feet underground, and when you turn on the hydrant, it takes a second for the water to come up. When you shut it off, the water drains out of the pipe, preventing any freezing. That’s why we use gravel around the pipe—it allows the water to drain properly and keeps the hydrant functional all winter. With everything in place, the hydrant works like a charm. It’ll save us from hauling buckets of water or milk jugs during the freezing months. My chickens have been keeping me company while I work, and they’ve enjoyed every worm I’ve dug up! As always, if you need advice or help with your homestead projects or homestead consulting services, feel free to reach out. My email is listed below. Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe, and I’ll see you next time! Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, we're on my property to work on a hidden spring system that hasn’t been cleaned in over five years. The spring is housed in a concrete block structure with a cement floor, walls, and roof, making it nearly invisible unless you get right up to it. There’s a metal door covering the entrance, and today’s project involves cleaning it out and setting up a small display to show how it was originally built around 1964.
Currently, the structure is partially concealed by a tree that fell over it. To give a better idea, the building has a concrete floor, block walls, and a poured cement roof, so it blends seamlessly into the environment. I’m about to remove the door and take you through this adventure as we clean out the accumulated sediment. After taking off the door, it’s a bit difficult to see the back wall clearly, but I’ll describe it as best I can. The inside is about four feet by four feet with cement blocks arranged to allow spring water to flow in. I’ve already shoveled out a good amount of sediment, and now I need to dig out the remaining buildup with a trowel. Time to get wet and dirty—let’s dive in! I have removed most of the dirt inside, and I want to show you the structure in more detail. It has a poured concrete floor, blocks laid horizontally on three sides to support the walls, and a poured concrete ceiling. The water flows through a one-and-a-quarter-inch pipe, which exits the structure through an outflow system I set up. I plan to build a more effective sediment trap for better filtration. The water is currently flowing at about six gallons per minute, which is impressive considering it’s the dry season. In wetter months, the flow can reach up to 14 gallons per minute, making it difficult for standard filters to handle. That’s why I’m constructing a larger sediment trap—a five-gallon bucket modified to manage the flow better. I’ll show you how I put it together and test it for effectiveness. The setup involves a one-inch hose barb, PVC pipe, and a fabric cover acting as a primary filter. It’s not pretty, but this is just the first version. If it works, I’ll refine it into something more permanent. I’ve been down in this small space for a couple of hours now, clearing the sediment, installing the new filtration, and making sure the system runs smoothly. Let’s see if it holds up! I know it’s a lot of work, but maintaining this spring system is worth it. The structure has been here since 1964, originally designed to feed a small cabin nearby. Now, the system connects to two separate storage tanks, each holding 275 gallons. The overflow runs into a double pump house, providing water storage of 550 gallons for use at the main house. This ensures we have plenty of water, even during the driest months. This is all part of ensuring that our water, power, and sewer systems remain reliable year-round. If you found this video helpful or interesting, please give it a thumbs-up, share it, and subscribe to the channel. We’re reaching more people every day and building a community focused on self-reliance and practical projects like this one. Thanks for joining me, and I’ll see you in the next episode! Contact us if we can help. We are available for Homestead Consulting Services and Preparedness planning. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, I'll walk you through the process of installing a UV light in an existing water filtration system. I’ll share some tips and tricks I’ve learned, including how to prevent breaking the glass tube, the proper way to install the light, and how to connect everything. Let’s get started!
Understanding the Assembly of the UV Light Before we begin the installation, let’s take a closer look at the assembly process for the UV light. These UV light kits are widely available on platforms like Amazon or from specialized suppliers. The model we’re using today is a 55-watt, 110-volt unit, suitable for use in the United States. It features two openings at each end along with a set of water fittings, and it can be mounted in various orientations—horizontal, vertical, or at any angle. The light comes with a long glass tube that resembles a test tube. Begin by sliding a ring over the glass tube, ensuring everything is properly aligned. Gently slide the tube down until it protrudes from the opposite end. This is where issues commonly arise, as the glass tube has a flange that needs to securely seal in place. Allow the tube to stick out slightly, hold it in position at the opposite end to prevent slipping, and then hand-tighten the assembly. Repeat the same process for the other end. How the UV Light Purifies Water Water enters one side of the unit, flows between the glass tube and the metal housing, gets purified by the UV light, and exits through the other end. This specific model comes with one glass tube and three light bulbs. It’s important to note that UV light bulbs are only effective for about one year, even if they are still producing light and heat. Annual replacement is recommended to ensure proper water purification. Proper Installation of the Light Bulb When inserting the UV light bulb, avoid direct contact with the bulb using your bare hands, as oils from your skin can damage it. Carefully slide the bulb into the glass tube and secure it using the four-prong plug provided. Hand-tighten the end caps, making sure the seals are correctly in place. The system also includes plastic mounting clips, which I’ll demonstrate later. Connecting the UV Light to Your System For my setup, I needed a 90-degree fitting to connect the unit to PEX pipe. However, since a 3/4" female pipe to 3/4" PEX fitting in a 90-degree angle wasn’t readily available, I used a shower fitting instead. I wrapped the threads with Teflon tape, applied pipe sealer, and tightened it securely. Now, we’re at the pump house. There’s a spring below, and a pump sends water up to a holding tank. Because of the distance, the pressure is low, so we installed a booster pump from Harbor Freight. We’ll cut the line at this point to connect the UV light system. I mounted a board to the wall to serve as a solid base for securing the light unit. Final Assembly and Mounting I cut the old PVC pipe and installed a 90-degree threaded fitting using wet and dry PVC cement. There are no leaks, thanks to the Teflon tape and pipe dope used on the connections. The PEX pipe is fastened securely with stainless steel clamps, and the UV light is mounted on the board with the provided plastic clips, which allow for easy removal during future bulb replacements. Cost and Installation TimeThis setup typically costs between $180 and $200, depending on the number of light bulbs and glass tubes required. Installation usually takes around 15-20 minutes, though it may take longer if you’re new to this type of project. Final Tips As always, if you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment on YouTube or send me an email. I’m happy to offer free advice, and I also provide installation or consultation services for a fee. Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you in the next video! Contact us if we can help you in your preparedness or homesteading projects. We provide homestead consulting and homestead planning services and are happy to help. Just reach out! Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, I'm going to talk about the largest spring box I think I've ever built. This one is either for myself or Mr. Chuck. Both springs are quite old, drawing water from the hillside, but we do get a little dirt and sediment in them. If you’ve watched my channel before, you’ll notice that I rigged up a filter on the outflow pipe to catch some of the sediment, and it works really well. Mr. Chuck has a similar issue with his spring, which we’re currently working on. As I’m going to show you in this video, the setup involves two 15-gallon drums. One drum has the top cut off and fitted to the bottom of the other, making use of both tops. This configuration allows water to enter through a tube that directs it downward, encouraging sediment to settle at the bottom. I also have my usual filters installed in the system. The overflow pipe is located on the side, where the filtered water will exit and flow into the catchment system. Here’s how it works: the water comes into one end of the pipe and flows downward. I have a one-inch pipe extending about 18 inches down, surrounded by a three-inch pipe. I’ll disassemble it during the build section to show you the details. There are slots at the bottom that force the water to settle at the base, allowing the sediment time to settle before it reaches the filter. Mr. Chuck implemented my idea and added a filter to his setup, which lasts a few weeks. I’ll show you how you can add a T-joint to incorporate two filters, or use a cross-joint for three filters, reducing the frequency of filter changes. This setup should collect a good amount of dirt and sediment. Each drum holds 15 gallons, or about 100 pounds of water. I’m planning to install a valve at the bottom, so when you’re ready to clean it, all you need to do is open the valve, and everything will drain out. Here, at the bottom of the lid, I’ll place a valve. If it fills with dirt and mud, you can open the valve and poke a welding rod up inside to release all the water. This way, when the tank empties, you’ll just be dealing with the dirt and mud instead of 100 pounds of water. It might look strange because I have one end here and another on the opposite end. What I did was cut ten and a half inches off the top of another barrel, which fits right over this one. I’ll show you how I marked it. It’s on the tapered edge, and since it’s round, it’s tricky, but I used a five-inch object as a guide, placed it against the barrel, and marked a line all the way around. It’s accurate enough for what I need. I’ll now take a saw and cut it off. Now, there it is. I cut it cleanly. I guess I have a new dog water bowl now! But this is actually the bottom of my filtration system. Here’s a large part of the drum that I already had cut. When you look inside, you can see that it fits perfectly at the bottom. We have about an inch and a half gap all around, allowing me to pour some food-grade silicone caulk and secure it with bolts. After aligning the two pieces, I secured them by wrapping a ratchet strap around the barrel to hold it tight, and I used self-tapping metal screws. I then took it apart and applied Lexel adhesive, which adheres to almost anything, but HDPE plastic is notoriously hard to bond. I marked the alignment points to ensure the holes matched up when reassembling. I applied a bead of adhesive around the top edge, slid the two pieces together, and tightened the bolts. It’s glued, sealed, and bolted securely. I trimmed the bolts sticking out, and although the grinder made a bit of a mess with the glue, the inside is solid with all the carriage bolt heads sealed. We’ll let it cure for a while, fill it with water, and see if my idea works. At the top of the barrel is where the handle used to be. I used a two-inch fitting, which is larger than needed, because I had to account for the original handle fixture. I made a two-and-a-quarter-inch hole using a hole saw to fit a two-inch male adapter. I wrapped Teflon tape around the fitting, and it should now be watertight. The inflow pipe connects here, and inside, we use a two-inch female adapter. A reducer connects to a one-inch pipe, which fits snugly. I don’t glue the interior components so they can be easily removed for cleaning. Despite the rain, I’ll show you this assembly. It’s a 90-degree elbow with an 18-inch pipe that fits into the bottom part of the lid. It’s designed to direct water downward, slowing it down and letting the sediment settle before reaching the filters. Now, I’ll put it all together. When complete, the water flows into the inflow pipe, settles at the bottom, and the filtered water exits through the T-joint. This way, I can add multiple filters if needed. The whole purpose is to prevent sediment from reaching the commercial filters. At the end of the year, I should have just a couple of inches of silt at the bottom, which will be much easier to clean out. If this interests you or if you have any questions, feel free to reach out. This is what we do here. I specialize in Carolina homestead planning and build custom solutions. If this video helps you or if you’ve modified my design, I’d love to see pictures or videos of your version. I’ll feature it on the channel, giving you credit and even a shout-out to your YouTube channel. As always, like, share, and subscribe. See you next time, and I’m happy to help! Visit us at: Carolina Homestead Planner How to Maintain and Optimize Your Water Cistern: Pro Tips for Clean, Reliable Spring Water9/27/2024 Welcome back to Basecamp WNC! Today, we're doing some maintenance work on the water cistern here at my place. I’m starting at the spring head, also known as the spring box. According to local stories, this setup was built back in the 1960s for a teacher who lived in the area. The structure is made from laid-up cement blocks with a cement floor and a 1.5-inch Pollock pipe feeding water through. Behind the dark-painted door is the water system that I’ll be walking you through shortly. The last time I cleaned this out, it was filled with a good amount of dirt that had washed down over time. I do a thorough cleaning every couple of years. I was hoping to strike gold in the dirt, but it turns out all I found was more dirt! The creek here is one of the headwaters that feeds the French Broad River in Western North Carolina. We’re quite high up, so there’s no pollution—just clean, natural spring water flowing through. I tried filming inside the spring head for a closer look, but it was too dark. I’ll explain more about the cement block construction and why we sometimes have a sediment buildup. For now, we’re catching the sediment in a filter bag, which I recently emptied. It had collected about two and a half inches of dirt, so it’s been doing its job well. I’m testing out a new filter bag and adjusting the water flow toward the bottom of the cistern to trap more sediment. I’ll also be installing a 20-micron sediment filter from Ace Hardware on the outflow pipe to see how much it collects. Over time, the cistern gathers a bit of sediment—nothing major, but it’s worth a good clean-up every couple of years. A fallen tree once covered part of the spring area, and while it’s mostly rotted now, it still affects the flow a little. The spring head flows at over ten gallons a minute, so I’m careful not to disrupt it too much. We’ll get back to this project in the summer when it’s a bit warmer. Stay tuned as I walk you through the new filter bag setup and the 20-micron filter installation. We’ll connect it and see how it performs with the older water retention systems from the 1960s. Now, we’re at the first water cistern. As I mentioned earlier, this system dates back to the 60s. It’s fed by a 1.5-inch pipe, which then overflows into a secondary cistern, and finally connects to the newer cisterns I installed. It’s not up to modern code, but it works reliably. The pump’s power line is held up by two steel fence posts—a temporary fix that became permanent, as often happens on a homestead. This system has been functioning well for two years. With the spring head pumping out over ten gallons a minute, I don’t plan on changing it unless something breaks. I’ll show you how I handle sediment build-up in the spring box. Back in the 60s, this precast concrete cistern was considered state-of-the-art. Water flows through a filter bag that captures the sediment. The sediment filter we’re adding is a straightforward 20-micron filter from Ace Hardware. We’ll see if it helps keep the water even cleaner. To set up the filter, I used a piece of 3/4-inch PVC pipe with drilled holes and capped one end. It fits over the pipe and stands upright inside the spring box. I’ll show you how I put it all together. Looking at the spring box again, the water enters through a solid pipe with small holes drilled into it. The new filter idea uses a 3/4 to 1-inch reducer and a 20-micron filter. This design should trap more particles than the original holes alone. If your water has any unusual taste or odor, it’s worth inspecting your spring head for possible issues. If you enjoyed this video, please like, share, and subscribe. I appreciate all my subscribers and love seeing your comments and feedback. Stay safe, keep working on your projects, and see you next time! Visit our site at: carolinahomesteadplanner.com. We provide homestead consulting services so be sure to contact us if we can help. Welcome Back to Base Camp WNC
It's finally here! I mentioned in a video from Thursday or Friday (can't quite remember which) that I’ve been eagerly awaiting this moment. We’ve got our hands on the 3000-watt solar pump system that allows you to take your AC well pump completely off-grid. It converts your pump to solar power with AC backup and battery support. Now, I could go on about sales reps. They said this system was ready four months ago, but it took all this time to actually get it to the customer. It’s frustrating to deal with delays like that, especially when it reflects poorly on me. But, at last, it's here! This 3000-watt system is designed to handle up to a one and a half horsepower, 220-volt well pump. It comes with an MPPT charge controller and an inverter. It's a split-phase 220 inverter, meaning you get two 110-volt lines with a neutral in between. Let’s dive into how this all works. They offer three different sizes of this system: 3000 watts, 6000 watts, and a brand new 12,000-watt model. The 3000-watt version is perfect for a one and a half horsepower well pump, while the larger 6000 and 12,000-watt models can power not only a well pump but also other off-grid needs like a cabin or RV. Looking at the output cable, you’ll see two 110-volt lines, a neutral, and a ground wire. This additional cable is for the AC charger. The system includes a 220-volt, 20-amp battery charger that can be connected directly to the grid. We’ll cover that part in more detail later on. This power cord plugs straight into your well pump, or you can wire the leads—two 110-volt lines, a neutral, and a ground—directly to a breaker box. With 3000 watts and a maximum of 125 amps, this setup delivers plenty of power for a well pump. Today is Saturday, and we're planning to install this system on Tuesday. We’ll walk through the entire installation process then. It’s a straightforward setup, mounted on this board. The customer will appreciate how simple it is. Just one on/off switch controls the whole system. The breaker stays off unless you're using grid power to charge the battery. The owner already has some solar panels from a previous system that didn’t work out. This 3000-watt setup includes three solar panels and two batteries, all mounted together. The positive and negative cables connect to the batteries, and the output cable goes to your well pump. We'll show the full wiring process on Tuesday. If you don’t have access to grid power, you can leave the breaker off. You also have the option to hook this inverter directly to a generator, which can power the pump without the need for the batteries. In a grid-down situation or during bad weather, running off a generator is a great option. The system also features a 200-amp catastrophic fuse and a solar disconnect switch. We’ll add some labels to make everything clear. This is how the system comes from me, ready to sell. Just connect two batteries, wire up the well pump, and set up the solar panels. It’s that simple. This 3000-watt system takes your AC-powered well off the grid, and unlike diaphragm pumps that wear out quickly, it’s designed to handle the start-and-stop pressures of a well pump. I’m excited that it’s finally arrived. Here’s the cost breakdown:
We'll be installing the system on Tuesday and going over the details like amps, draw, watts, and volts. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out—my contact information is below. In the coming days, we’ll also cover a new variable speed start-up water pump designed for off-grid water cistern systems, so stay tuned for that. We’ll be testing and getting the solar system operational in the Tuesday install video. If you have any questions or need help, don’t hesitate to get in touch. Please like, share, and subscribe as we continue to grow, bit by bit. Thanks for watching! If you are looking for homestead consulting, please get in touch. We look forward to being a homesteading resource and helping in any way we can. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC!
We're continuing our series on water system installation, focusing on a future campground in Mountain City, Tennessee. This episode covers setting up a water tank, installing pumps, and getting the water flowing. Let's break down the process:
Next Steps:
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