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Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! If you’re looking for a practical way to keep your PTO generator dry, this guide is for you. Today, I’ll walk you through the process of building a durable, weatherproof cover for your generator using an IBC tote. Keeping your generator dry is crucial, and this DIY project is a cost-effective solution. Let’s get started! Why Build a Cover for Your PTO Generator? Generators must be protected from moisture to operate reliably. In this setup, the generator sits beneath the drip line of a roofed shed. Using an IBC tote, we crafted a custom cover that fits perfectly over the generator. The tote is cut and modified to create a sturdy, protective enclosure. Step 1: Preparing the IBC Tote We started with a standard IBC tote and cut it down to size. Here’s how we measured and modified it:
Step 2: Assembling the Frame Once the pieces were cut:
Step 3: Cutting and Modifying the Cover The top section of the IBC tote was split to create a cover. Key modifications included:
Step 4: Painting and Final Adjustments To prevent scratches and condensation, the inside of the cover was painted black. Additional steps included:
Step 5: Installing the CoverWith the cover built and painted:
Final Setup and Testing The generator was hooked up to the tractor and wired for use. To prevent water pooling, we dug out the area beneath the roof and added gravel for proper drainage. The cover is now fully waterproof and user-friendly:
Key Takeaways This IBC tote cover is a cost-effective and durable solution to keep your PTO generator dry and functional. These totes are widely available and affordable, especially if they previously held non-drinking water. Ready to Build Your Own Generator Cover? If you’re inspired by this project and have any questions, feel free to reach out! Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe to Base Camp WNC for more DIY tips and tricks. Thanks for watching, and we’ll see you in the next video! If you have questions or are looking for homestead consulting services, please visit our site at: CarolinaHomesteadPlanner.com. We are happy to help
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Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, we’ll walk you through the setup of a PTO-driven generator. This particular unit is a 24,000-watt (12kW) generator with a surge capacity of 27,500 watts, purchased from Northern Tool and Hydraulics. Let’s dive into the details and specifications.
Generator Overview The generator includes the transmission and PTO shaft. Similar models from Agri Supply come pre-mounted on stands and also include the PTO shaft. For this setup, we’ve repurposed an old carry-off for the back of a tractor, modified with frames from a mobile home. When connected to the tractor, the PTO shaft runs straight, and the generator rests securely on the ground. Why Choose a PTO-Driven Generator? PTO-driven generators are ideal for locations with multiple tractors. For example, this property has two tractors—one dedicated to the generator and another for cleanup tasks. Following Hurricane Helene, such a setup has proven invaluable. To operate this generator, the tractor should have a minimum of 45 horsepower. In this case, we’re using a 63-horsepower tractor, providing more than enough power. One key benefit of this generator is its simplicity. There’s no need to maintain an additional motor or battery; you can allocate a tractor to it whenever required. Generator Specifications and Features The generator control panel includes:
The system is managed by 60-amp and 100-amp breakers. This particular model is a North Star generator, which must remain dry during operation. To address this, we’ve built a protective cover, as shown in one of our previous videos, ensuring the generator is safe from rain or snow. The setup includes:
This 24,000-watt single-phase generator is one of the larger models, but there are smaller options available, such as 16,000-18,000 watts or even 12,000 watts. Initially housed on a pad designed for a diesel engine, this generator features a 100-amp plug feeding into a breaker box with a disconnect switch. Future enhancements will include lithium batteries and an inverter to provide seamless power transitions, especially for a house with a wood-fired furnace requiring overnight electricity. With this setup, the generator will be ready to handle the next storm and provide reliable whole-house power. Final Thoughts If you’re considering a similar setup, the simplicity and reliability of a PTO-driven generator make it a worthwhile investment. If you have questions or need help, feel free to reach out—we’re here to help. Thanks for watching! Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe to Base Camp WNC, and let your friends know about us. See you in the next video! If you have additional questions or have a need for a homestead consultation, please visit our site and reach out to us. We are happy to provide help. How to Build a Massive Firewood Storage Facility: Step-by-Step Guide for Long-Term Wood Storage11/16/2024 Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, I’m thrilled to take you through a major winter project that’s been in the works for quite a while—a massive firewood storage facility. This setup is specifically designed to support an outdoor wood boiler and provide a long-term solution for storing firewood. You never know when you will need the extra firewood, so it's important that we are prepared. Let’s dive into the process and take a look at how this impressive facility came together. Laying the Foundation: Getting Started Right The project began with a solid concrete foundation. When the outdoor furnace was first installed, a concrete slab was poured for the boiler. Additionally, a 16 by 20-foot slab was prepared, but the construction of the firewood building itself had been put off—until now. This storage facility will hold up to 17 cords of wood, enough to keep the boiler running for up to three years. We’ve already started cutting and stacking wood on one side, with more firewood on the way. Adding Convenience with Lighting and Organization To make accessing the firewood at night easier, we installed three bright LED lights controlled by a switch. Now, there’s no need for flashlights! We also added a handy mailbox that stores a torch and matches, making it quick and easy to light a fire. Plus, a kindling box is being built in a dedicated spot, helping to keep everything neat and organized. Expanding for Extra Storage and Equipment Protection We extended the structure by six feet to add even more storage space. This additional area will hold extra firewood and equipment. One bay is specifically designed to store the log splitter during the off-season, protecting it from the elements. We also included a sturdy shelf to store gas cans, oil, and essential maintenance tools like a grease gun and paintbrush. Detailed Construction: Strong and Durable Build The core of the project involves installing four main beams, carefully positioned while the ground is frozen for easier handling. We used post holders drilled and bolted securely into the concrete floor for maximum stability. The building measures 20 feet wide and 16 feet deep. To create longer beams, we connected two nine-foot beams using pre-drilled holes from a previous metal building project. Smart Wood Storage Design for Long-Term Durability To keep the firewood dry and ready to burn, we designed the storage area using treated lumber pallets. These heavy-duty pallets ensure long-lasting support. The facility can hold about two and a half years’ worth of firewood, keeping it off the ground and well-ventilated. We also used cattle panels for the walls, secured with staples. The edges were bent inward to prevent injuries, creating a safe and efficient storage space. Roofing: Built to Last The roof is made from repurposed metal sheets of different lengths, helping us reduce costs and make use of available materials. We used rough-cut one-by-four boards across the beams and added a right-angle support piece for extra strength. The roof design can handle heavy snow loads, with supports spaced six feet apart to provide a solid, weather-resistant cover. Final Details and Tips for Your Own Firewood Storage With the structure complete, this facility is now capable of storing up to three years’ worth of firewood, ensuring you’ll always have dry, seasoned wood ready to burn. The use of cattle panels allows for excellent airflow, preventing moisture buildup and helping the wood dry faster. This open design is more efficient than a fully enclosed building, saving time and reducing the risk of mold or rot. I hope this guide inspires you to tackle your own firewood storage project or helps you learn more about efficient wood storage techniques. If you found this walkthrough helpful, please like, share, and subscribe to stay updated on our latest projects. Hit that thumbs-up button, and I’ll catch you in the next one! Remember, if you need any homesteading or self-reliant planning, be sure to contact us. We are here to help with homestead consulting and planning. Visit us at: CarolinaHomesteadPlanner.com Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, we're tackling an exciting off-grid project: installing an RPS solar well pump system designed to provide reliable water access for livestock and potential household use. Overview of the Project The landowner has chosen an RPS solar pump to draw water from a deep well, filling a 2,500 or 3,000-gallon storage tank. This tank is strategically placed to gravity-feed water downhill to livestock pastures and possibly supply future household needs. Solar Power Setup The system is driven by 1,200 watts of solar energy using RPS solar panels, complete with racking and adjustable angle brackets for optimal seasonal performance. However, additional components like piping and well wiring were sourced separately. The solar panels are mounted on sturdy 4-inch galvanized pipes, buried 5 feet into the ground for stability. Electrical and Grounding System The system includes two ground rods for electrical safety. A wire from the solar panels connects to three additional ground rods, spaced 6 feet apart, ensuring compliance with local codes. The RPS Universal Pump Drive powers the pump, positioned at a depth of 300 feet in a 500-foot well. One notable feature of this setup is its ability to switch power sources, running directly off a generator if needed. Pump Capacity and Flow Control The RPS pump delivers up to 18 gallons per minute, adjustable down to 10 gallons per minute. Multiple valves control water flow: one for the well, one for the pastures, another reserved for future household use, and an overflow valve that directs excess water to a pond. The system also features an electric float switch for automatic on/off functionality. Tank and Valve Protection The water storage tank sits on a base made from rough-cut treated lumber, buried a couple of feet underground to prevent freezing. Flexible hoses connect the tank to various outlets, allowing for expansion and contraction without damaging the pipes. A modified 55-gallon drum serves as a protective cover for the valves, ensuring stability and shielding the system from potential damage. The tank area is backfilled with gravel, following recommendations from the manufacturer's representative, to accommodate any movement from tank expansion. Overflow and Expansion Features The overflow system directs excess water to a pond, providing a secondary source of water for local wildlife. The landowner has planned for future upgrades, including the addition of more solar panels or a battery backup for nighttime operation. Assembling the RPS System The landowner assembled the entire RPS variable speed pump system using detailed instructions provided by the manufacturer. Although technical support response times may vary, the project is manageable for a dedicated homeowner willing to put in the effort. Future plans include installing a deep well pump for grid power once the house is built. Need Help Designing Your Own System? If you're interested in designing a similar off-grid water system, reach out to Carolina Homestead Planner for assistance. And don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe for updates! In our next video, we’ll be setting up a gravity-fed water system to support regenerative pasture management. We value your feedback, so let us know your thoughts in the comments below. Stay tuned, and see you in the next video! Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! We’re kicking off a new homesteading series, starting with essential tips on freeze-proofing your water systems to survive the winter. This first video will cover everything you need to know to keep water flowing on your homestead, even when temperatures plummet. Over the last month, I’ve seen countless YouTube videos from other homesteaders on how to winterize water systems, but I noticed many end up with frozen pipes and hoses, leaving them unable to water their animals. We’re here at the campground with a new well system that, unfortunately, froze and broke during a recent cold snap. The plumber added insulation, but it wasn’t enough. The campground lost water, and repairs were necessary. In this video, I’ll walk you through how to prevent similar issues by using heat tape, insulation, and power backup systems to keep your water supply secure. Insulating the Well I recently received a call about a well located high up on the mountain that wasn’t properly insulated, resulting in a frozen pipe and broken tank. The tank was left with inadequate insulation, and when temperatures dropped to just a couple of degrees, everything froze solid. Our plan here is to:
Setting Up for Extreme Weather With the temperatures expected to dip into the 20s or teens again soon, we’re taking extra steps to safeguard the system:
Wrapping Up This project is a foundational part of our new homesteading series. We’re going to cover more winter-proofing tips, from water filtration to managing livestock in extreme temperatures. Our goal is to help you avoid common pitfalls, like frozen water systems that many other homesteaders encounter. From insulating well pumps to setting up backup power, we’ll provide reliable solutions that keep your homestead prepared for the cold. If you found this helpful, please like, share, and subscribe to support our Youtube channel. Feel free to contact me for more homesteading tips or if you have any specific homestead services questions. Stay tuned for our next video where we’ll dive into filtration systems for safe drinking water straight from streams! Visit us at: CarolinaHomesteadPlanner.com for more information and tips. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! It's late July, or maybe early August by the time you're reading this, and we’re already preparing for winter by installing a freeze-proof hydrant. If you've ever seen these in stores and wondered how they work, I’m going to walk you through the process. I’ll show you why it’s freeze-proof, how I like to install it, and some extra steps I take to make it even more effective. We’re working on the homestead, running this hydrant out of the well house and into the water system. The key to a freeze-proof hydrant is its installation, which involves burying the bottom part of the hydrant deep enough to avoid freezing temperatures. I like to use four or six-inch corrugated pipe for extra protection, and here we’re using four-inch pipe. Over the top of the hydrant, I place a flower pot filled with gravel for proper drainage at the weep hole—don’t worry, I’ll explain what that means and how it works. To build the stone trap, I’ve taken a four-inch corrugated pipe (though PVC works too) and placed it in the hole. To prevent dirt and water from getting in, we’ll cap it with a simple one-gallon nursery pot. By cutting a hole in the pot and sliding it over the hydrant pipe, we ensure everything stays in place while allowing for easy drainage. It may sound complicated, but once you see it, it’ll all make sense. Now for the setup: I’ve got the hydrant in place, and as I work in the shade (because it's hot out here!), I’ll show you the slit we cut into the pipe. Instead of threading the pipe through, we can now easily slide it down into the hole. Once we position everything, the hydrant will sit right over the pipe and allow for easy winter use. Here’s how it works: the water valve is buried two feet underground, and when you turn on the hydrant, it takes a second for the water to come up. When you shut it off, the water drains out of the pipe, preventing any freezing. That’s why we use gravel around the pipe—it allows the water to drain properly and keeps the hydrant functional all winter. With everything in place, the hydrant works like a charm. It’ll save us from hauling buckets of water or milk jugs during the freezing months. My chickens have been keeping me company while I work, and they’ve enjoyed every worm I’ve dug up! As always, if you need advice or help with your homestead projects or homestead consulting services, feel free to reach out. My email is listed below. Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe, and I’ll see you next time! Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, we're on my property to work on a hidden spring system that hasn’t been cleaned in over five years. The spring is housed in a concrete block structure with a cement floor, walls, and roof, making it nearly invisible unless you get right up to it. There’s a metal door covering the entrance, and today’s project involves cleaning it out and setting up a small display to show how it was originally built around 1964.
Currently, the structure is partially concealed by a tree that fell over it. To give a better idea, the building has a concrete floor, block walls, and a poured cement roof, so it blends seamlessly into the environment. I’m about to remove the door and take you through this adventure as we clean out the accumulated sediment. After taking off the door, it’s a bit difficult to see the back wall clearly, but I’ll describe it as best I can. The inside is about four feet by four feet with cement blocks arranged to allow spring water to flow in. I’ve already shoveled out a good amount of sediment, and now I need to dig out the remaining buildup with a trowel. Time to get wet and dirty—let’s dive in! I have removed most of the dirt inside, and I want to show you the structure in more detail. It has a poured concrete floor, blocks laid horizontally on three sides to support the walls, and a poured concrete ceiling. The water flows through a one-and-a-quarter-inch pipe, which exits the structure through an outflow system I set up. I plan to build a more effective sediment trap for better filtration. The water is currently flowing at about six gallons per minute, which is impressive considering it’s the dry season. In wetter months, the flow can reach up to 14 gallons per minute, making it difficult for standard filters to handle. That’s why I’m constructing a larger sediment trap—a five-gallon bucket modified to manage the flow better. I’ll show you how I put it together and test it for effectiveness. The setup involves a one-inch hose barb, PVC pipe, and a fabric cover acting as a primary filter. It’s not pretty, but this is just the first version. If it works, I’ll refine it into something more permanent. I’ve been down in this small space for a couple of hours now, clearing the sediment, installing the new filtration, and making sure the system runs smoothly. Let’s see if it holds up! I know it’s a lot of work, but maintaining this spring system is worth it. The structure has been here since 1964, originally designed to feed a small cabin nearby. Now, the system connects to two separate storage tanks, each holding 275 gallons. The overflow runs into a double pump house, providing water storage of 550 gallons for use at the main house. This ensures we have plenty of water, even during the driest months. This is all part of ensuring that our water, power, and sewer systems remain reliable year-round. If you found this video helpful or interesting, please give it a thumbs-up, share it, and subscribe to the channel. We’re reaching more people every day and building a community focused on self-reliance and practical projects like this one. Thanks for joining me, and I’ll see you in the next episode! Contact us if we can help. We are available for Homestead Consulting Services and Preparedness planning. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, I'll walk you through the process of installing a UV light in an existing water filtration system. I’ll share some tips and tricks I’ve learned, including how to prevent breaking the glass tube, the proper way to install the light, and how to connect everything. Let’s get started!
Understanding the Assembly of the UV Light Before we begin the installation, let’s take a closer look at the assembly process for the UV light. These UV light kits are widely available on platforms like Amazon or from specialized suppliers. The model we’re using today is a 55-watt, 110-volt unit, suitable for use in the United States. It features two openings at each end along with a set of water fittings, and it can be mounted in various orientations—horizontal, vertical, or at any angle. The light comes with a long glass tube that resembles a test tube. Begin by sliding a ring over the glass tube, ensuring everything is properly aligned. Gently slide the tube down until it protrudes from the opposite end. This is where issues commonly arise, as the glass tube has a flange that needs to securely seal in place. Allow the tube to stick out slightly, hold it in position at the opposite end to prevent slipping, and then hand-tighten the assembly. Repeat the same process for the other end. How the UV Light Purifies Water Water enters one side of the unit, flows between the glass tube and the metal housing, gets purified by the UV light, and exits through the other end. This specific model comes with one glass tube and three light bulbs. It’s important to note that UV light bulbs are only effective for about one year, even if they are still producing light and heat. Annual replacement is recommended to ensure proper water purification. Proper Installation of the Light Bulb When inserting the UV light bulb, avoid direct contact with the bulb using your bare hands, as oils from your skin can damage it. Carefully slide the bulb into the glass tube and secure it using the four-prong plug provided. Hand-tighten the end caps, making sure the seals are correctly in place. The system also includes plastic mounting clips, which I’ll demonstrate later. Connecting the UV Light to Your System For my setup, I needed a 90-degree fitting to connect the unit to PEX pipe. However, since a 3/4" female pipe to 3/4" PEX fitting in a 90-degree angle wasn’t readily available, I used a shower fitting instead. I wrapped the threads with Teflon tape, applied pipe sealer, and tightened it securely. Now, we’re at the pump house. There’s a spring below, and a pump sends water up to a holding tank. Because of the distance, the pressure is low, so we installed a booster pump from Harbor Freight. We’ll cut the line at this point to connect the UV light system. I mounted a board to the wall to serve as a solid base for securing the light unit. Final Assembly and Mounting I cut the old PVC pipe and installed a 90-degree threaded fitting using wet and dry PVC cement. There are no leaks, thanks to the Teflon tape and pipe dope used on the connections. The PEX pipe is fastened securely with stainless steel clamps, and the UV light is mounted on the board with the provided plastic clips, which allow for easy removal during future bulb replacements. Cost and Installation TimeThis setup typically costs between $180 and $200, depending on the number of light bulbs and glass tubes required. Installation usually takes around 15-20 minutes, though it may take longer if you’re new to this type of project. Final Tips As always, if you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment on YouTube or send me an email. I’m happy to offer free advice, and I also provide installation or consultation services for a fee. Don’t forget to like, share, and subscribe. Thanks for watching, and I’ll see you in the next video! Contact us if we can help you in your preparedness or homesteading projects. We provide homestead consulting and homestead planning services and are happy to help. Just reach out! Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, I'm going to talk about the largest spring box I think I've ever built. This one is either for myself or Mr. Chuck. Both springs are quite old, drawing water from the hillside, but we do get a little dirt and sediment in them. If you’ve watched my channel before, you’ll notice that I rigged up a filter on the outflow pipe to catch some of the sediment, and it works really well. Mr. Chuck has a similar issue with his spring, which we’re currently working on. As I’m going to show you in this video, the setup involves two 15-gallon drums. One drum has the top cut off and fitted to the bottom of the other, making use of both tops. This configuration allows water to enter through a tube that directs it downward, encouraging sediment to settle at the bottom. I also have my usual filters installed in the system. The overflow pipe is located on the side, where the filtered water will exit and flow into the catchment system. Here’s how it works: the water comes into one end of the pipe and flows downward. I have a one-inch pipe extending about 18 inches down, surrounded by a three-inch pipe. I’ll disassemble it during the build section to show you the details. There are slots at the bottom that force the water to settle at the base, allowing the sediment time to settle before it reaches the filter. Mr. Chuck implemented my idea and added a filter to his setup, which lasts a few weeks. I’ll show you how you can add a T-joint to incorporate two filters, or use a cross-joint for three filters, reducing the frequency of filter changes. This setup should collect a good amount of dirt and sediment. Each drum holds 15 gallons, or about 100 pounds of water. I’m planning to install a valve at the bottom, so when you’re ready to clean it, all you need to do is open the valve, and everything will drain out. Here, at the bottom of the lid, I’ll place a valve. If it fills with dirt and mud, you can open the valve and poke a welding rod up inside to release all the water. This way, when the tank empties, you’ll just be dealing with the dirt and mud instead of 100 pounds of water. It might look strange because I have one end here and another on the opposite end. What I did was cut ten and a half inches off the top of another barrel, which fits right over this one. I’ll show you how I marked it. It’s on the tapered edge, and since it’s round, it’s tricky, but I used a five-inch object as a guide, placed it against the barrel, and marked a line all the way around. It’s accurate enough for what I need. I’ll now take a saw and cut it off. Now, there it is. I cut it cleanly. I guess I have a new dog water bowl now! But this is actually the bottom of my filtration system. Here’s a large part of the drum that I already had cut. When you look inside, you can see that it fits perfectly at the bottom. We have about an inch and a half gap all around, allowing me to pour some food-grade silicone caulk and secure it with bolts. After aligning the two pieces, I secured them by wrapping a ratchet strap around the barrel to hold it tight, and I used self-tapping metal screws. I then took it apart and applied Lexel adhesive, which adheres to almost anything, but HDPE plastic is notoriously hard to bond. I marked the alignment points to ensure the holes matched up when reassembling. I applied a bead of adhesive around the top edge, slid the two pieces together, and tightened the bolts. It’s glued, sealed, and bolted securely. I trimmed the bolts sticking out, and although the grinder made a bit of a mess with the glue, the inside is solid with all the carriage bolt heads sealed. We’ll let it cure for a while, fill it with water, and see if my idea works. At the top of the barrel is where the handle used to be. I used a two-inch fitting, which is larger than needed, because I had to account for the original handle fixture. I made a two-and-a-quarter-inch hole using a hole saw to fit a two-inch male adapter. I wrapped Teflon tape around the fitting, and it should now be watertight. The inflow pipe connects here, and inside, we use a two-inch female adapter. A reducer connects to a one-inch pipe, which fits snugly. I don’t glue the interior components so they can be easily removed for cleaning. Despite the rain, I’ll show you this assembly. It’s a 90-degree elbow with an 18-inch pipe that fits into the bottom part of the lid. It’s designed to direct water downward, slowing it down and letting the sediment settle before reaching the filters. Now, I’ll put it all together. When complete, the water flows into the inflow pipe, settles at the bottom, and the filtered water exits through the T-joint. This way, I can add multiple filters if needed. The whole purpose is to prevent sediment from reaching the commercial filters. At the end of the year, I should have just a couple of inches of silt at the bottom, which will be much easier to clean out. If this interests you or if you have any questions, feel free to reach out. This is what we do here. I specialize in Carolina homestead planning and build custom solutions. If this video helps you or if you’ve modified my design, I’d love to see pictures or videos of your version. I’ll feature it on the channel, giving you credit and even a shout-out to your YouTube channel. As always, like, share, and subscribe. See you next time, and I’m happy to help! Visit us at: Carolina Homestead Planner How to Maintain and Optimize Your Water Cistern: Pro Tips for Clean, Reliable Spring Water9/27/2024 Welcome back to Basecamp WNC! Today, we're doing some maintenance work on the water cistern here at my place. I’m starting at the spring head, also known as the spring box. According to local stories, this setup was built back in the 1960s for a teacher who lived in the area. The structure is made from laid-up cement blocks with a cement floor and a 1.5-inch Pollock pipe feeding water through. Behind the dark-painted door is the water system that I’ll be walking you through shortly. The last time I cleaned this out, it was filled with a good amount of dirt that had washed down over time. I do a thorough cleaning every couple of years. I was hoping to strike gold in the dirt, but it turns out all I found was more dirt! The creek here is one of the headwaters that feeds the French Broad River in Western North Carolina. We’re quite high up, so there’s no pollution—just clean, natural spring water flowing through. I tried filming inside the spring head for a closer look, but it was too dark. I’ll explain more about the cement block construction and why we sometimes have a sediment buildup. For now, we’re catching the sediment in a filter bag, which I recently emptied. It had collected about two and a half inches of dirt, so it’s been doing its job well. I’m testing out a new filter bag and adjusting the water flow toward the bottom of the cistern to trap more sediment. I’ll also be installing a 20-micron sediment filter from Ace Hardware on the outflow pipe to see how much it collects. Over time, the cistern gathers a bit of sediment—nothing major, but it’s worth a good clean-up every couple of years. A fallen tree once covered part of the spring area, and while it’s mostly rotted now, it still affects the flow a little. The spring head flows at over ten gallons a minute, so I’m careful not to disrupt it too much. We’ll get back to this project in the summer when it’s a bit warmer. Stay tuned as I walk you through the new filter bag setup and the 20-micron filter installation. We’ll connect it and see how it performs with the older water retention systems from the 1960s. Now, we’re at the first water cistern. As I mentioned earlier, this system dates back to the 60s. It’s fed by a 1.5-inch pipe, which then overflows into a secondary cistern, and finally connects to the newer cisterns I installed. It’s not up to modern code, but it works reliably. The pump’s power line is held up by two steel fence posts—a temporary fix that became permanent, as often happens on a homestead. This system has been functioning well for two years. With the spring head pumping out over ten gallons a minute, I don’t plan on changing it unless something breaks. I’ll show you how I handle sediment build-up in the spring box. Back in the 60s, this precast concrete cistern was considered state-of-the-art. Water flows through a filter bag that captures the sediment. The sediment filter we’re adding is a straightforward 20-micron filter from Ace Hardware. We’ll see if it helps keep the water even cleaner. To set up the filter, I used a piece of 3/4-inch PVC pipe with drilled holes and capped one end. It fits over the pipe and stands upright inside the spring box. I’ll show you how I put it all together. Looking at the spring box again, the water enters through a solid pipe with small holes drilled into it. The new filter idea uses a 3/4 to 1-inch reducer and a 20-micron filter. This design should trap more particles than the original holes alone. If your water has any unusual taste or odor, it’s worth inspecting your spring head for possible issues. If you enjoyed this video, please like, share, and subscribe. I appreciate all my subscribers and love seeing your comments and feedback. Stay safe, keep working on your projects, and see you next time! Visit our site at: carolinahomesteadplanner.com. We provide homestead consulting services so be sure to contact us if we can help. Welcome Back to Base Camp WNC
It's finally here! I mentioned in a video from Thursday or Friday (can't quite remember which) that I’ve been eagerly awaiting this moment. We’ve got our hands on the 3000-watt solar pump system that allows you to take your AC well pump completely off-grid. It converts your pump to solar power with AC backup and battery support. Now, I could go on about sales reps. They said this system was ready four months ago, but it took all this time to actually get it to the customer. It’s frustrating to deal with delays like that, especially when it reflects poorly on me. But, at last, it's here! This 3000-watt system is designed to handle up to a one and a half horsepower, 220-volt well pump. It comes with an MPPT charge controller and an inverter. It's a split-phase 220 inverter, meaning you get two 110-volt lines with a neutral in between. Let’s dive into how this all works. They offer three different sizes of this system: 3000 watts, 6000 watts, and a brand new 12,000-watt model. The 3000-watt version is perfect for a one and a half horsepower well pump, while the larger 6000 and 12,000-watt models can power not only a well pump but also other off-grid needs like a cabin or RV. Looking at the output cable, you’ll see two 110-volt lines, a neutral, and a ground wire. This additional cable is for the AC charger. The system includes a 220-volt, 20-amp battery charger that can be connected directly to the grid. We’ll cover that part in more detail later on. This power cord plugs straight into your well pump, or you can wire the leads—two 110-volt lines, a neutral, and a ground—directly to a breaker box. With 3000 watts and a maximum of 125 amps, this setup delivers plenty of power for a well pump. Today is Saturday, and we're planning to install this system on Tuesday. We’ll walk through the entire installation process then. It’s a straightforward setup, mounted on this board. The customer will appreciate how simple it is. Just one on/off switch controls the whole system. The breaker stays off unless you're using grid power to charge the battery. The owner already has some solar panels from a previous system that didn’t work out. This 3000-watt setup includes three solar panels and two batteries, all mounted together. The positive and negative cables connect to the batteries, and the output cable goes to your well pump. We'll show the full wiring process on Tuesday. If you don’t have access to grid power, you can leave the breaker off. You also have the option to hook this inverter directly to a generator, which can power the pump without the need for the batteries. In a grid-down situation or during bad weather, running off a generator is a great option. The system also features a 200-amp catastrophic fuse and a solar disconnect switch. We’ll add some labels to make everything clear. This is how the system comes from me, ready to sell. Just connect two batteries, wire up the well pump, and set up the solar panels. It’s that simple. This 3000-watt system takes your AC-powered well off the grid, and unlike diaphragm pumps that wear out quickly, it’s designed to handle the start-and-stop pressures of a well pump. I’m excited that it’s finally arrived. Here’s the cost breakdown:
We'll be installing the system on Tuesday and going over the details like amps, draw, watts, and volts. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out—my contact information is below. In the coming days, we’ll also cover a new variable speed start-up water pump designed for off-grid water cistern systems, so stay tuned for that. We’ll be testing and getting the solar system operational in the Tuesday install video. If you have any questions or need help, don’t hesitate to get in touch. Please like, share, and subscribe as we continue to grow, bit by bit. Thanks for watching! If you are looking for homestead consulting, please get in touch. We look forward to being a homesteading resource and helping in any way we can. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC!
We're continuing our series on water system installation, focusing on a future campground in Mountain City, Tennessee. This episode covers setting up a water tank, installing pumps, and getting the water flowing. Let's break down the process:
Next Steps:
Remember to like, share, subscribe, and leave comments! For more Homestead Planning, visit us at CarolinaHomesteadPlanners.com. We offer Homestead Consulting Services for those interested. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, we're continuing our Pump and Spring Water Project. This is Part 2. In this episode, we'll cover:
Let's begin with assembling the pressure tank:
Assembly process: First, remove the shipping plug from the tank to keep out dirt and critters. Apply Teflon tape to the joints and start assembling. Use channel locks to tighten the pressure switch and a crescent wrench for the nut. Screw in the pressure gauge and attach the valve for water outflow and the pop-off valve. Key components:
The 48-gallon tank can pump 48 gallons before pressure drops. Inside the tank is a diaphragm that stretches to retain pressure, acting like a balloon. If your pump cycles frequently, you may need a larger tank or multiple tanks in series. For example, at our farm, we have three large tanks in series to manage irrigation demands. Maintenance tip: Check the air pressure regularly using a tire pressure gauge. If the pressure is too high, release some air until it reaches 38 psi. If it's too low, add air. Proper air pressure ensures efficient operation and prevents frequent pump cycling. Stay tuned for upcoming videos on installing the main tank, setting up pumps, connecting the system, and wiring. We'll continue to share useful tips along the way. Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe for more helpful content. Thanks for watching! Visit our site at: CarolinaHomesteadPlanner.com for more tips and resources for Homestead Planning. We provide Homestead Consulting Services - so be sure to contact us if we can help. Well, welcome back to Base Camp WNC. It's been a while. I've got hours of footage on my phone that I need to download while I'm supposed to be resting. So, over the next week or so, I'll be trying to get a bunch of videos out to give the gang something to look at and comment on, and give the haters something to pick apart.
We’re working on a project where we’re pumping spring water up a hill with quite a bit of flow. This guy's setting up an Airbnb and a bunch of glamping campsites. I do homestead consulting, so this project was right up my alley. In this piece of pipe is a three-horsepower pump doing about 38 gallons a minute, and he's got some hills to pump it up. I’m going to take you along for the build. We’re starting with the pump, and I’m going to show you everything: the pump itself, all the check valves, and the fittings. The purpose of installing this pump is to draw water through one end, cool the motor as it passes, and then go into the intake of the pump. The water will come out this end and go up out of the tank. I’m going to set up all the pressure tanks and show you how to put them together. Once we’re out on site, I’ll pull that video and show you the full assembly and wiring process. This tank here is a 350-gallon tank I had sitting in the yard. If the pump were mounted vertically in this tank, the intake would be right there. So, out of a 350-gallon tank, you’d lose about 125 gallons that you’d never be able to pump out. But the tank is only 3 1/2 feet in diameter, so you can’t lay it down. When selecting a tank, you need to know what pump you’re using. Maybe I’ll do a video on pump selection, including horsepower, head (the pump’s ability to lift water vertically), and distance. This tank here isn’t ideal for a deep well pump because it’s not wide enough at the bottom. The actual tank for the pump will be 7 1/2 feet wide, enough to fit a 5T pump across the bottom. Let’s go over the setup. On the end of the pump is an inch and a quarter thread. We’ll attach a bushing, a check valve to prevent backflow, and then the pipe. We’re using 1-inch PEX pipe that goes up from there. We’ve built caps for the PVC slide with an inch and a quarter hole drilled in the center for the bushing and pipe. I have two holes here. This white nylon tape is for pulling out the pump if needed. We won’t pull on the power cord but on this pull cord. There’s a piece of conduit that runs through, with two holes to tie it off. This keeps the pump from wiggling and cutting the power cord. Let’s assemble it and see how it looks. The pump will sit on the bottom of the pipe, with a 6-inch space off the ground to avoid sediment. This setup ensures the motor is cooled while running, just like in a well. The purpose is to direct water flow across the motor and into the pump intake. I use 10-pound weights from an old weight set to hold the pump off the bottom. These weights, bought from Habitat for Humanity, are much cheaper than the $600 commercial option. Now, let’s build the saddle mounts. I never throw anything away, so we’re using an old piece of 6-inch PVC pipe. After cleaning it up, we drill a 5-inch hole with a hole saw bit and cut it off in the middle. These mounts fit on the pipe, secured with galvanized bolts and a strap. This setup is cost-effective and does an excellent job. Thank you for watching. If you made it to the end, please leave your comments—good or bad. Share ideas or improvements. This is just one in a series of builds, and I’ll show you the complete setup with pressure tanks and wiring. Visit our site at: Carolina Homestead Planner and contact us about self-reliant consulting. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC, where we're excited to present our latest project: a state-of-the-art rainwater catchment system featuring a first flush system. Join us as we guide you through the intricacies of this innovative setup, designed to collect rainwater, discard the initial runoff, and channel crystal-clear water into your home.
Picture this: a 1,550-gallon tank, standing tall at 7 feet 4 inches in diameter, nestled in the perfect spot near your building. We've meticulously prepared the site, laying down fine gravel and using a tamper to create a flawlessly level surface. It's the ideal foundation for our tank, which will soon be the heart of your rainwater collection system. Now, let's talk about gutters. We're thrilled to introduce a new product that outshines our usual stainless steel Gutter Helmets. Imagine long, flat pieces of rigid screen, seamlessly joined to create a smooth, continuous surface. The screen, cleverly tucked into the edges, acts as a highly effective debris filter. We'll show you how it looks installed on the roof, where rainwater gracefully drips off and passes through the screen, while leaves and debris are skillfully filtered out. It's a sight to behold, and we're confident you'll prefer it to the stainless steel Gutter Helmets. The plumbing is where the magic happens. We've drilled a large hole in the rain gutter and secured a three-inch toilet flange with a 45-degree elbow, smoothly transitioning to a 90-degree elbow. This masterfully directs the water into the tank. On the other side, you'll find the first flush tube, a clever device designed to capture the initial, dirtier runoff. We've carefully calculated the necessary size based on your roof area, ensuring it collects just the right amount of water first. The first flush system features a float mechanism, typically utilizing a plastic bottle. As the tube fills, the bottle rises, eventually sealing off the tube and diverting cleaner water to the tank. It's a self-draining marvel, with a rod and drilled holes allowing for slow drainage, minimizing maintenance. You'll only need to clean it once or twice a year, leaving you more time to enjoy your pristine rainwater. At the heart of the purification system, water exits the tank through a shut-off valve and check valve, ensuring a one-way flow. It passes through a spin-down filter with a valve for easy cleaning, then through 20 and 5 micron filters, before finally being purified by a UV light as it enters your home. It's a journey of transformation, turning rainwater into a pure, refreshing resource. When winter comes knocking, we've got you covered. The system can be easily drained by opening specific valves, removing filters, and ensuring the UV light is angled for drainage. We're also planning to install fittings that allow air tank use for blowing out the system, preventing any freeze damage. If you're captivated by the potential of rainwater systems or need expert consultation, we're here for you. We offer free online and phone consultations, and hourly rates for on-site assistance or projects. Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe for more updates on our exciting journey into sustainable living. Thank you for joining us at Base Camp WNC, where innovation meets sustainability. Together, we're making a difference, one raindrop at a time. For more information or to get homestead consulting services, visit our site at: carolinahomesteadplanner.com Progress Update on Our Tiny House Build
Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! In our latest update on the tiny house project, we've made significant progress. Since our last update, the plumbing installation is nearly complete. The interior now boasts new paneling, and Carl has been hard at work crafting the cabinets right on site. A designated space for the refrigerator and the stove has been set up, and the sink installation area is ready. In the bathroom, we've installed the drywall and are preparing to mount the fixtures and the toilet. Outside, the electrical infrastructure is coming along, with trenches dug and power lines installed over the past two weeks, connecting us to the main poles. Although wiring isn't fully complete, power has been established at the main box. Our water supply line from the well is in place, and we're finishing the remaining connections. This includes the water and drain lines, which are essential for winterizing the home. The septic tank installation is another milestone, with all the necessary plumbing hook-ups and a cleanout installed for maintenance ease. Despite the challenges of incoming weather, we're pressing ahead. I plan to cover the installation of the septic tank's drain field in an upcoming video. With heavy rain forecasted, we've also taken precautionary measures to prevent the empty septic tank from shifting by filling it partially with water. As always, I'll continue to document our journey, including the installation of the sewer line and ensuring proper grading beneath the tiny house. Our next big task will involve landscaping and installing the underpinning. Thank you for following our progress! Don't forget to like, share, and subscribe for more updates. If you have any questions or comments, feel free to post them. I look forward to sharing more with you in our next video. Thank you for watching! Visit us at: Carolina Homestead Planner. I offer homestead consulting and self-reliant lifestyle planning. Welcome back to base camp! Today, we're discussing whether it's more feasible to develop a sustainable homestead or to foster a sustainable community. Up here in the mountains where I reside, our local practices offer a glimpse into effective community-based agriculture. For instance, a neighbor, who raises cattle, has been busy processing last year's herd. This fresh, unvaccinated, and purely raised beef is sold directly from our mountain at just under six dollars a pound. Our small community is a vibrant example of agricultural diversity. Along with beef, we have locals who raise goats, sheep, and even rabbits. A recent addition is a neighbor who bought a trout farm, aiming to supply both wholesale and retail markets with trout fillets. Almost all our meat needs are met locally, except for chicken. However, plans are underway for a USDA certified processing facility which could soon include poultry. Through my consulting work with homesteads, I've realized the significant land and resources required for cattle and sustainable feed production. This reinforces the value of community support where local producers are supported above market rates, ensuring fair profit and sustainable living. The recent shortages in grocery stores post-snowstorm highlight the benefits of local food production. With global uncertainties like major grain purchases by countries such as China, local sustainability ensures food security. Remember, supporting local agriculture isn't just about buying local—it's about creating a network of mutual support that benefits everyone. If you're in the area, or even if you're from as far as Virginia or Florida, it’s worth considering sourcing your meat from us. Feel free to reach out if you're interested in learning more about managing a sustainable setup or if you're looking for quality, locally-produced meat. As always, like, share, and subscribe to stay updated with our endeavors. Don't hesitate to get in touch if you need advice or products. Catch you in the next video! For more information on homestead consulting, visit us at: Carolina Homestead Planner Welcome back to Base Camp WNC! Today, we're exploring a robust solar energy solution for an off-grid well pump system, featuring a 6000-watt inverter as its core. This system cleverly integrates various power sources to ensure seamless operation, even during power outages. The inverter, though lacking a built-in solar charger, is a pivotal component in a setup designed to disconnect a 220-volt well pump from the grid. The configuration includes separate main panels for the house and guest cottage, as well as essential power supplies for critical loads, such as kitchen lights and the furnace. During a power loss, a generator automatically kicks in, powering all essential systems. However, the goal here is to minimize generator use by integrating solar power. This is achieved by connecting the well pump to the inverter, which then utilizes either grid power, generator output, or solar energy, depending on availability and priority settings. The inverter itself offers a dual AC priority mode—favoring grid or solar power—and automatically switches to battery power if the grid fails. This flexibility ensures the well operates uninterrupted, regardless of external power conditions. If solar energy is insufficient (e.g., during prolonged snowy conditions), the system seamlessly returns to grid power until solar conditions improve. Installation insights reveal a practical setup using readily available materials like unistrut and four-inch standoffs for mounting solar panels on the roof. This economical method ensures stability and ease of installation while maintaining roof integrity with double-sided perma-seal and roof cement. This solar-powered system not only provides a sustainable solution to run a 220-volt well pump off-grid but also demonstrates the versatility and efficiency of integrating solar energy with traditional power systems. The entire setup, including a thousand watts of solar panels, offers a reliable and cost-effective way to maintain water supply independently of the grid. For those interested in similar systems, whether for residential or small-scale commercial applications, this project exemplifies how solar power can effectively reduce reliance on conventional power sources and generators, promoting a more sustainable and self-sufficient lifestyle. Remember to like, share, and subscribe for more updates on innovative off-grid solutions. If you're considering a custom setup or need guidance, feel free to reach out—we're here to help design and implement the system that best meets your needs. Get more information and resources at: Carolina Homestead Planner. Contact us to help with your preparedness and homestead consulting. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC, where we are excited to share our latest project in the beautiful state of Tennessee. We are currently developing a remarkable site featuring 16 cabins, all nourished by the natural purity of spring water. This endeavor involves constructing a dam, meticulously designed to harness this pristine resource effectively. The heart of our project is the innovative Spring Water Dam, complemented by a homemade sediment tank. This setup is not only efficient but also one of the most user-friendly systems I have worked with recently. The process includes using heavy machinery to transport stones, enhancing the structural integrity of the dam, and preventing erosion with additional rock layers. Moreover, the homeowner has ingeniously created a spring box, utilizing simple yet effective materials, like a five-gallon container, to filter the water. The system delivers about a gallon of water per minute, gradually improving as it filters through the rocks. We're committed to expanding this system, building a comprehensive dam that will significantly increase the water capacity and quality. Our construction strategy is hands-on and community-based. Local friends assist by laying pipes and managing the sediment. We take pride in engaging with the community, ensuring that every aspect of the build is handled with care and precision. The project's scope includes not only the physical construction but also the installation of a filtration system and overflow management. This ensures that the water is not only abundant but also clean and safe for the cabins' future residents. We are thrilled to take you along on this build. Our commitment to sustainable and efficient construction practices is evident in every step we take. If you are interested in developing a spring on your property, we are more than happy to assist through consultations or direct services. Remember to like, share, and subscribe to follow our journey at Base Camp WNC. We appreciate your support and look forward to showcasing more of our innovative projects. Thank you for watching! For more great tips and solutions to your self-reliant living and homesteading, visit Carolina Homestead Planner. Contact us to provide consulting services for preparedness. Welcome back to Base Camp WNC. It has been some time since I've checked in due to personal and family commitments. As you can see, we are currently at the farm. Despite it being nearly mid-April, we've endured a long, cool, wet winter. Currently, the team is busy setting out watermelon plants. Let's take a stroll up the row where the crew is in the midst of harvesting strawberries. All the customers are located on the opposite side of the farm, while the field over here remains open. As we continue up the aisle, the team plans to plant four different types of watermelon, dedicating four beds to each variety. This morning was spent planting various tomato breeds, totaling eight varieties for the farm. Elsewhere, all the squash has been set out. The irrigation has been running for about four to five days to thoroughly moisten the soil, adhering to the old saying: "Sow dry, set wet." This means planting seeds when it's dry and transplanting when it's moist. There are still some beds that need filling. The tomato plants stretch from here to there, keeping everyone quite busy. Our planting strategy is based on soil temperature, typically not setting out seeds until it reaches 55°F. As the old folks say, "Never plant your garden until the blackberries bloom." Given that the blackberries are currently in bloom, it's safe to plant the vegetable garden according to their wisdom. Soon, we'll visit the Strawberry Fields and observe the blackberries. A new machine has recently tilled the area beneath the beds to control weeds. I had hoped to film it in action during my visit. I've just returned from the mountains where the temperature was near freezing, but here it's soared to 80°F. Farmer Walter has returned to tractor duty, lending a hand to speed up the work. The team is spacing out watermelon plants for planting, with two individuals working the planter and planting every other slot. I'll show you more as they make their return pass. It’s genuinely fascinating to watch. Watching the planting is enjoyable, and this year, they've implemented a new technique by tying the plants in with string, creating a narrower pathway than before. The plants are kept within the trellis wires to facilitate upward growth and to allow machinery access for weed control. We avoid herbicides and have experimented with various methods like black plastic and filter fabric, but none have been completely effective for long-term crops. We've also started using an overhead spray system to elevate the water lines, helping prevent rabbits from damaging the drip tape on the ground. The blackberries are in better shape than they have been in a while, having been prepared for harvest around June, with blueberries following in May and strawberries still in season. It’s a sunny 80°F today. The public crowded the fields over the weekend, and we have a team picking berries now. We'll also check out the blueberry plants across the ditch. These blueberries, planted two years ago, were cut back significantly but are maintained at no more than four feet in height for easier harvesting. While the weekend crowds are a challenge, particularly with rain, we remain diligent in our care for the crops. We fertilize based on soil analyses, using a precise liquid fertilizer system to tailor nutrients specifically to each crop, be it watermelons, corn, or strawberries. That's all for this update. As always, if you have any questions or need assistance, feel free to ask. Despite the unpredictable weather, including frequent rain, we adapt and manage as best we can. If you found this informative, like, share, subscribe, and tell your friends about it. I’ll see you in the next update. For homestead and preparedness consulting, visit us at Carolina Homestead Planner. |
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